Chapter 9: Status [Section Two] (Part 2)

Translator: Tygris
English proofreader: 247Reader

Because the funeral rites had ended, the Empress had been crowned, and the concubines had been titled, the women of the harem were no longer ubiquitously wearing plain clothes and silver ornaments. In the morning, Hailan changed into a ruyi-shouldered ^[1]如意 (rú yì), a ceremonial scepter symbolizing power and good fortune, is one of the Eight Treasures often depicted in Chinese art and is often used as one of the Chinese auspicious ornaments in textiles and clothing. aqua-blue qizhuang. ^[2]See: Qizhuang – Wikipedia Only the neckline and cuffs were dotted with embroidered white flowers. This matched her as a person, refreshing but not overwhelmingly beautiful; of course, this was also her usual attire.

As usual, Hailan came to serve Ruyi in getting up and also took the morning meal with her before heading towards Chang’chun Palace to pay respects to Langhua. 

Langhua’s complexion was extremely good, her facial features were well made-up, and she had changed into a hibiscus honey-colored changyi① embroidered with butterflies and flower branches. ^[3]折枝 (zhé zhī) is a way of depicting flowers in paintings where it is not the whole plant that is depicted, but, rather, only branches broken off of the main trunk. The characters 折枝 directly translate to broken branches/breaking of branches. On her head, only a single gilded hairpin held up her cloud-like black hair. The knotted-up hair at the back of her head was simply adorned with a few silver, jade, and pearl hairpins and a few ordinary flowers and greenery. Though simple, it also appeared generous and serene.

This morning, the Second Prince was also brought over by the wet nurse. Langhua was even more joyful, and the consorts and concubines could not help but also become lively, either saying that the Second Prince had grown stronger or that he seemed like a smart and clever child.

Only Noble Lady Jia, Jin Yuyan, upon examining Langhua’s ensemble, smiled and did not speak. Langhua noticed this at once; she smiled and asked, “Usually, Noble Lady Jia loves to laugh and make witty remarks. Why is it that today she only smiles and does not say a word? Has being in Chang’chun Palace made you cautious?”

Yuyan hurriedly smiled and said, “This concubine was looking at the embroidered flowers on Empress Niangniang’s clothes. Though there are few flowers embroidered, it really is the definition of using cleanliness and brightness as beauty. It looks very generous and serene.”

Langhua gently straightened out the peony button ^[4]Cloth knotted into a certain shape which can be used as a button. on her lapel and said with a smile, “Noble Lady Jia has always enjoyed dressing up prettily. Bengong wants to hear your evaluation.”

Yuyan bowed towards [Langhua], flexing like a willow tree swaying in the wind, and gave a detailed reply. “This concubine sees that the flower branches embroidered on Niangniang’s clothes are stitched in the pattern which was most popular among palace women in the early Qing Dynasty, when we first entered the pass ^[5]入关 (rù guān) means to go through a pass/a route over or through mountains. This refers to how when the Qing Dynasty was established, the founding Emperor led the army through the mountain pass to Beijing. and established the dynasty. The beauty of this pattern is displayed through scattered patterns and generous spacing that, using the Beijing embroidery technique, ^[6]See: http://en.chinaculture.org/2014-12/02/content_579451.htm. emphasizes grandeur using continuous motifs of wealth and auspiciousness.

“But now, the most popular pattern in the palace uses light and soft satin materials, pursuing a lithe and fluttering sense of gentle beauty. Often, the cuffs, lapels, and hems of skirts will be embroidered while the body is filled with light and delicate patterns, usually either in Jiangnan embroidery style ^[7]See: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzhou_embroidery. TL Note: Pretty sure Jiangnan here means Suzhou-area, as in, to the south of the Yellow River… or woven using golden threads. Though the patterns are densely packed, the objective is to be as delicate and soft as possible.

“Today, one can see that Empress Niangniang’s ensemble truly exhibits the traditional style of the early Qing Dynasty.”

Everyone listened to Yuyan’s detailed descriptions, then looked at the qizhuangs on their own bodies. Although the colors and patterns were different when compared to the Empress’s attire, theirs indeed were much more light and delicate.

The Empress listened until [Yuyan] finished speaking, then was unable to keep herself from sighing. “When it comes to dressing up, Bengong has always known that Noble Lady Jia is meticulous and keen on details. Now it seems that she is indeed a conscientious person who can perceive Bengong’s intentions.

“This morning, after rising, Bengong checked the accounts of the Imperial Household Department and discovered that the cost incurred by women in the harem on clothing every year was a truly tremendous amount.

“Although the clothes on Bengong right now are also embroidered, the patterns are sparse and can be completed by the maids in the palace or ordinary tailors and craftsmen in the capital. Yet, what you all wear is designed to be light and soft, requiring the skill and tributes of the Jiangnan and Suzhou embroiderers. In addition, the process of molding gold and making golden threads is expensive. These two types of clothing have greatly different costs. 

“Moreover, the adornments and fashions favored by those in the Imperial Harem are often sought out by the people and have become popular, causing the price of cloth imported from Jiangnan to increase severalfold. Even embroidery in general has become ever more expensive.

“If this trend continues, lavishness will become the norm both inside and outside the palace. How could that be acceptable?”

Langhua spoke sentence by sentence. Though her expression remained peaceful and pleasant, the consorts and concubines all understood the meaning hidden behind her words. Each of them lowered their heads, not daring to say another word. 

Only Concubine Chun did not understand, and, with a smile, she said, “Empress Niangniang speaks rightly. It is just that the Emperor has always said that the late Emperor and Emperor Emeritus Kangxi worked hard to govern the country, making the kingdom wealthy and the people strong…”

Langhua faintly curled her lips, moved the teacup closer, and gazed fixedly at [Concubine Chun]. “There is a famous folk saying that wealth does not survive three generations. ^[8]A similar meaning to clogs to clogs in three generations. Even if the kingdom is wealthy and the people are strong, the Imperial Harem still should not be extravagant and wasteful. Otherwise, for how many generations can the foundation built by our ancestors last? 

“But then again, Concubine Chun, you have just given birth to the Third Prince, and are valued by the Emperor. Being wasteful and extravagant is understandable. Bengong is only speaking of oneself.”

Suxin understood and poured fresh tea into the Empress’s cup, saying, “Exactly so. Yesterday, the Empress instructed the Imperial Household Department that, even for Chang’chun Palace, the decorations allowed would at most be made of gold or pearls. The use of silver objects or velvet flowers and common plants would be preferable. Items such as pure gold or dongzhu ^[9]Eastern pearls are found in the wild in the northeast region of China, in the Songhua River, Heilongjiang River, Wusuli River, Yalu River, and their basins. During the Qing Dynasty, these eastern pearls were a symbol of power and were often inlaid in crowns, clothes, earrings, etc. to show one’s identity and to signify imperial power. By this time, excessive pearl mining had caused the supply to shrink rapidly, yet the official/government-sponsored pearl fisheries were expanding. and nanzhu ^[10]Southern pearls, generally referring to the Hepu Southern pearls, are known as the first amongst all pearls in the world. By Kangxi’s time, the supply had already been devastated: there were official pearl mining expeditions, but the harvests were either very small or nonexistent. are prohibited.”

[Xi]yue gave a leisurely smile, examining the silver and jadeite nail guards adorning her hand. “This concubine will naturally listen to Empress Niangniang’s words, unlike Younger Sister Concubine Chun, who, having had the Third Prince, can speak and act with confidence. In the end, we are still different.”

Though Concubine Chun was simple and naive, when such words had been spoken, how could she fail to understand? She uncontrollably blanched, her legs softened, and she fell to her knees, saying, “Begging for Empress Niangniang’s forgiveness. May Niangniang see clearly, that though this concubine has given birth to a prince, it is all due to the blessing of Empress Niangniang. This concubine does not dare to be arrogant due to supposed achievements, and even more so does not dare to be wasteful and extravagant.”

Langhua maintained her faint smile. “That is enough. No need to kneel at every little thing. It seems as if Bengong had been treating you all particularly harshly. Get up.”

Only then did Concubine Chun dare to rise before timidly sitting back down.

Yuyan was delighted. Her gaze swept across the gathered consorts and concubines, and she moved forward to smile. “Empress Niangniang’s words are very true. But by now, the [fashion] trend has already been established. Without mentioning [the trend] inside and outside the palace, even the clothing and accessories bestowed by the Emperor upon Joseon were luxurious and extravagant. 

“This concubine hears from the Joseon envoys that, even in Joseon, these are at the height of fashion. If we were to change to the fashion from when we first entered the pass, but also at the same time reward relatives, women of nobility, and vassal counties thus, would it not cause outsiders to find it bizarre?”

With these words, she thought that she was being considerate of the Empress to the utmost, while still taking her own preferences into account. Ruyi and Hailan exchanged a glance, and at this moment only smiled without saying anything.

Langhua lightly sipped at her tea before slowly saying, “Noble Lady Jia’s words naturally make sense. The Emperor cannot avoid rewarding the [people and countries] outside [the palace] thus. But within [the palace], we should adhere to simplicity in all aspects.”

Her expression grew slightly more stern. “What is most important is that now, when the country is peaceful, we cannot forget the difficulties of our ancestors in pacifying the world. We, as the role models of the women of the world, should be constantly mindful of our identities, never forgetting our ancestors.”

These words were extremely weighty, and even though Jin Yuyan was eloquent, she had no choice but to lower her head in agreement.

[Xi]yue was the first to stand out. “Since Empress Niangniang has already taken the lead, this concubine will definitely follow in her footsteps. Starting today, [this concubine] will no longer wear extravagant clothes and luxurious pieces of jewelry. [This concubine] will learn from Empress Niangniang, constantly keeping in mind the difficulties of our ancestors and living a simple life.”

Langhua nodded and sighed softly. “These are Bengong’s good intentions. Please do not think that Bengong is purposefully excoriating you all. There are many people in the Imperial Harem. If each person spends more, then with a big family and a big institution, there will always be times of difficulty.”

At this time, Noble Lady Yi, who had been sitting silently to the side, spoke. “This servant has served Empress Niangniang for many years. Empress Niangniang has always been unmoved by extravagance. Even now, the pearl buttons used on her lapels are only the common ones provided by the Imperial Household Department. Even using the tribute pearls feels too wasteful.”

Concubine Chun hurriedly smiled apologetically. “Noble Lady Yi used to closely serve Empress Niangniang, and would naturally not fail to know of any matters. It seems that it was us concubines who were too inconsiderate, having not properly followed the Empress’s example.”

The Empress smiled kindly at Noble Lady Yi. “That is enough. Now, you have already become a Noble Lady officially titled by the Emperor. How can you keep referring to yourself as ‘this servant’?”

Noble Lady Yi hurriedly responded respectfully. “This concubine follows Empress Niangniang’s words.”

Author’s Note

①changyi: Changyi and chenyi ^[11]See the author’s note at the end of Arc 1 Ch 7.4 are similar in style, with the minor difference being that chenyi has no openings, while changyi has openings up to the armpits, with cloud-shaped decorations on the tops of the openings. The patterns on changyi were also more gorgeous, and the trimmings on the edges were more exquisite. The collar, cuffs, the intersection between the collar and the armpit, the side hem, and the hem were all trimmed with lace, flower ribbons, jagged patterns, etc. of different colors, different craftsmanship, and different materials. Especially in the Jiangnan region, the more ornate, the more beautiful it was. It was the formal wear for women in the Qing Dynasty Palace.

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